In the development of cleanical formulations, hyaluronic acid stands out for its moisturising and rejuvenating properties. However, not all hyaluronic acids are created equal. There are different molecular weights that offer specific benefits for each layer of the skin. What are the properties of each and how do they work together?
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (20-50 kDa) penetrates deep into the skin, reaching the lower layers of the epidermis. Its benefits include
Deep hydration: Due to its ability to penetrate, it provides intense hydration to the innermost layers of the skin.
Stimulates collagen production: improves skin elasticity and firmness.
Deep wrinkle reduction: Its moisturising properties help to reduce the appearance of deeper wrinkles and fine lines.
Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid
Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid (100-200 kDa) acts in the middle layers of the epidermis. Its benefits include
Hydration and water retention: in the middle layers of the skin.
Improves skin texture: contributes to smoother, more even skin.
Soothing: Helps reduce irritation and redness, making it ideal for sensitive skin.
High Molecular Weight Hyaluronic Acid
High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (1,000-1,500 kDa) remains in the surface layers of the skin. Its benefits include:
Surface hydration: Forms a barrier on the surface of the skin, preventing moisture loss.
Instant plumping effect: Provides a visible firming and plumping effect, reducing the appearance of surface wrinkles.
Protection from external agents: Helps protect the skin from harmful environmental factors such as pollution and UV rays.
Degradation of hyaluronic acid in the skin
The degradation time of hyaluronic acid in the skin varies depending on the molecular weight and the area of application. In general, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can last for 4-6 hours while high molecular weight hyaluronic acid can remain on the surface of the skin for approximately 24 hours.
The ideal solution for formulating long-lasting moisturisers is to combine the different fractions of hyaluronic acid in the same proportions as found in our skin for 24-hour moisturising results and firm, rejuvenated skin.
